Monthly Archive for May, 2010

Vain and Vapid

Ursa Major Linen Cotton Dress

Orion Tie Front Dress
Photos: Alana Davis

Vain and Vapid‘s summer collection look book just came out and I love all her designs. Beautifully photographed and lovely hand-made garments, this is yet another example of a micro-capsule collection that seem to pop up on the net. More details and shop info here.

Girly Style Book – Dress K

Girly Style Book – Dress K

Dress K is the second Girls dress I made for L and the class I will be teaching at Modern Domestic next week! It’s an absolutely lovely summer style that looks extremely cute on. I used the fabric of one of my dresses I bought from H&M last year. I loved the print, but it just didn’t fit quite right. Once I took it apart I understood why: It was sewn extremely off-grain! In it’s current reincarnation it’s definitely much better. The fabric is a super soft cotton sateen. The neckline is finished with an off-white lace and the rushing at the back which is when I deviated from the instructions: Instead of encasing a 3/4″ elastic tape, I used elastic thread in the bobbin. The outcome is super soft and comfy to wear. Much more kid friendly then a harsh elastic. I also had to taper the side seams a bit less then the pattern asked for, as I just didn’t have enough fabric width – but it turned out with enough flare.

There are still spots left in next weeks class. So if you are in Portland and want to make a dress for your little one (like these, this or these) and learn how to sew with Japanese pattern books, sign up for class!

Anna Allen

pic: anna allen

Anna’s new clothing items are for sale here. Inspired by late 19th century childrenswear, these items are pretty and wearable at the same time. Anna’s blog that I have been following for a while is to be found here.

Barre3 – Summer Shape-up Challenge

Pic by barre3

Portland, OR belongs to the 5 fittest cities in America according to this study.. Needless to say, I signed myself up for the barre3 summer shape-up challenge. Workout at barre3 16 times in June and there are prices to win. Besides a trim me for bikini season. In order to motivate myself even more, I thought, I’d post little asides on my progress, mood and hurdles and hopefully the changes in my body.

July 20th.
Well…..I did it! I almost failed because our vacation cut June a week short and I never thought I’d make it. But thanks to my ‘pushy’ supportive husband, I ended up going twice on a Sunday and made it to the 6am class the following Monday. And all before we left for our flight to Santa Ana!
I definitely got stronger. And trimmer. Still ways to go until i will finally get rid of my little baby puchy left over. But I am now able to access some of the muscular structure that I couldn’t do so prior. So, as long as I go 2-3 times a week, everyday activities are much more supported as well, e.g. my posture on a bike is more supported as I don’t slump over the handlebar. Or I press down on the stroller handles rather then just pushing it which in turn lifts my core. So, good experience. And just another proof that once you through a challenge at me, I am on it. But for the rest of the year, I’ll stick to 2-3 times a week. Is much more manageable right now…

Mmmhhhh – Leather

I have the absolute unique and unbelievable opportunity to learn from a Master! I went to a beautiful studio space in the Pearl yesterday to meet Larry O. owner of Entermodal, a product designer who has specialized in creating stunning handbags, messengers, duffles and backpacks in the most beautiful leathers. All of his products are sewn by hand (yes – not by machine) and made right here in the heart of Portland.

In my first visit I learned a bit about his background and did my first trials in hand sewing leather. I guess, all the sewing experience I raked up this last year is paying off. I don’t think my first two seams (to the right) where bad at all! I can’t wait for next week to get some more practice in. And eventually, create my first leather bag…

Dress E and fabric remnants

Dress E is a  lovely tunic from Stylish Dress Book I ISBN978-4-579-11185-5.
Absolutely my favorite style so far. And even though I made it in August of last year, I seam to not getting tired of it.

Fabric is a eyelet lace cotton which was so see through at the beginning, that it demanded a cotton voile lining. Pockets and Tunic hem are laid in the  yardage so that selvage edge formed a natural hem and pocket entry (detail pics below).

L’s skirt is made out of fabric remnants, same here: the simplest skirt with elastic waistband, selvage edge is skirt hem. One single huge pocket can carry everything from stones to her new Klean Kanteen water bottles. Tee has a cat applique out of the same eyelet lace with buttons and felt hearts. Unfortunately covered by her ‘hood to coast’ relay medal. Early achiever I’d say…Better pics of the tee here, Artwork and how-to instructions can be downloaded from that page too.

Amsterdam – Made by Hand

I’d love to get this new book out in June by Pia Jane Bijkerk, an Australian stylist and photographer scouring her favorite destinations to find inspiring new pieces. Locations like The Frozen Fountain and Dutch Quilts are surely on my list when I visit Amsterdam next.

Sur la plage

Bea Szenfeld’s incredible paper crafted garments are on exhibit at Stockholm’s Design Galleriet. More beautiful pics on Coolhunting. pic from Coolhunting.

Conquering button holes in Denim

Today I wanted to share a little How-to to sewing denim button holes. Sewing denim is definitely not the easiest. It can be tough to handle the fabric and i found sewing button holes to be kind of a b…ch.

I posted about my Wiksten Skirt from Stitch magazine last week which I enjoyed making very much. But when it came to the button holes, the progress stalled. For the life of me, I couldn’t get the button holes sewn nicely. The top thread  was shredding every time, the bobbin thread knotted and at the end, they looked like a mess! And I took them out several times.

After attempting, i don’t know, maybe 30, I gave in and contacted a local seamstress who said she could do it. Needless to say, two weeks later she caved in as well. Same issues. By that time, the denim on one of my skirts had extremely thinned out on some areas.

I did several more try’s and finally! I was able to create button holes that turned out really good actually (see above).

So here is how to do it on a regular sewing machine with or without automatic buttonhole program:

1. Choose a leather needle when you use denim thread. For regular thread, use a denim needle.

2. Use a regular sewing thread in the bobbin.

3. Choose a wider stitch length!
This is especially important with heavy weight fabrics, as it won’t fray the same way as light weight fabrics do. Most automatic programs on sewing machines are set to sew medium weight fabrics.

4. And sew sloooowly. Because even though you did above steps and the leather needle’s eye is so much larger, you still run the risk to shred your top thread to pieces if you are going to fast.

Bekväm Clothing

Bekväm Clothing is based in McMinnville, Oregon. Run by Hannah Elise, she posts small batches of clothing on her blog and online shop which sells out within days! Lovingly made, simple, clean designs with beautiful details. Pic by Bekväm.

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