Monthly Archive for July, 2010

Before the dust

Skirt
Fabric: Linen from an old linen tunic I had for ages.
Pattern: Style N
Buttons: Knitten Kitten

Top:
Fabric: Liberty scraps from those two tops and black Bamboo Jersey that I had left from my seek line.
Pattern: free Oliver+S Pattern available here.
Pattern adjust: spread out the hem by 4″ to create more swing and shortened the dress to a shirt length.

The skirt will never be as white as here. I just used the skirt pattern as a guide because L is so slim built that skirts with a fixed waistband always slip of her hips. So even though I made it much shorter and took it in from the get go, I still had to take it in about 2″ more on one of the side seams to make it fit her. It’s cute though and I really enjoyed the button closure. The buttons are from the crafty thrift store Knitten Kitten here in portland. Great, cheap finds, and the buttons were in a big bag of 2nd hand once.

Cynthia Rowley for Roxy

Photos: Cynthia Rowley for Roxy

This might be an old hat for some of you, but Cynthia Rowley and Roxy launched a women’s surf wear collection in Barneys NY and Colette this spring. The collection is 60s inspired when it comes to the pastel colored neoprene wet suit and pencil skirt, a swim suit that’s sexier then a bikini and incorporates staples like modern graphical tanks and tees and an oversized hooded sweatshirt. The offering also included accessories like headbands, sandals and bags.

If you go pink – go the whole way!

A sticky project from this weekend. As all of L’s shoes got too small in the last week or so, So we embarked on a little shopping trip to the Employee Store. And these pink sandals were the ones she picked. Well, I have to say I am guilty of buying AND making pink things for her, but this pink was just a little too obnoxious for my liking! Something had to be done: So I pulled out the package of  Sneakart sticker sheets that I had ordered over a month ago. And this cute zebra print was the one. I am glad, the sandals were unworn when I put the stickers on – I think there is no way that I would get them clean enough after L outed them in the sandbox for the first time.

Simple and satisfying little project – and lots of designs on the Sneakart page. And if you really don’t find anything you like, just design yourself and upload…

Oh, on a different note: I updated the sewing japanese tab – with much more info on how to… (Project links will come soon too!)

♥ Tribal Patterns ♥

Am working on some patterns for my Silkscreen Printing class at Modern Domestic and had been drawing up some tribal type patterns (amongst some other). Then I saw these pictures on Refinery 29 for their swimsuit photoshoot. The top two are right down my alley. The background art is simply stunning. Check out more pics here.

Below my doodles from Tuesday’s class that I will work on further this week to create a motive/repeat.

Magical Tie Dye – Shabd Simon-Alexander

Photos: Shabd Simon-Alexander

♥ Oh so desirable tie dye items. This summer, I need, need, need to try this technique. Shabd’s items are so beautiful. The bikini on the bottom right is a collab with Mociun. I wish I were in Brooklyn to take one of Shabd’s classes. ♥

DIY Couture

pics by DIYcouture

DIY Couture is just another example to prove that Slow Fashion (or DIY revolution) is picking up steam. DIY couture, a british collaboration of craftsy creatives, has developed 12 books that very visually illustrate the steps it takes to make the 12 base garments. (pictured above the pleated skirt, gathered dress, wrap top, shrug and pants) The books are geared towards the beginning sewist and claims to eliminate the need for complicated patterns.

pic from diy couture via Coolhunter.

Holly Fulton – FW Collection

All pics: Holly Fulton

Just stumbled over this and thought it’s absolutely gorgeous! Holly Fulton, Royal College of Art allumni’s 3rd collection. Love the Art Deco leggins and the fun oversized graphic illustrations placed in a novel way on the garments. Available only in Europe and Asia. And the rooster of stockist is a surefire sign for some high street versions.

Sun Protection II

You are probably wondering why I have started to write a category like Tuesday Tech Talk on my blog. Well, as you might now, besides going crazy making stuff, photographing and writing about it, I am still a designer. And my aspiration for I ♥ Design is to become – over time – a resource for designers in the athletic and outdoor apparel industry. A place where not only I share my inspirations and personal projects but also the knowledge I have researched and built up over the last 15 years as a designer in the athletic apparel industry.

So here is part 2 of the Sun Protection Series. Last week we discussed the meanings and differences of UVA, UVB, SPF and UPF and the best option we currently have to protect ourselves from harmful UV Rays.

This week, I’ll be focusing on the UPF component. UPF – Ultraviolet Protection Factor rates how much of the suns radiation is absorbed. A UPF 50 only lets 1/50th of the UV rays pass through. So in other words, the UV rays are reduced to only 2%.

Determination of UPF Ratings:
In the past, UPF ratings were determined by placing a piece of fabric on top of human skin and expose it to UV radiation up to 60 times higher then the Sun. The resulting degree of sunburn determined the UPF rating. Ouch! These days Spectrometers are used to determine the UPF with much less pain for any testing subject.

Now, look at some test results with only white test matter  from an Australian study in the mid 90s:

And here a table of the UPF ratings and what they mean:

So, a UPF of 20 lets only 20% of the UV rays through which in other words means, only 5% of the UV rays are passed through. UPF 15 is the minimum rating a fabric has to achieve before it can be labeled sun protective.

General Observations:
Generally, the lighter the color of a material, the less UV absorption. If a fabric has a tight weave, it’s UPF rating will be higher than a loose weave. Also note that once a fabric is stretched, the weave or knit structure becomes more dense and more rays can pass through. Easy testing method for everybody at home: Hold the fabric up to the light: If you can see through it, the rating will be less then when it’s dense. Also, if fabric gets wet, the UPF rating is instantly cut in half. So a white cotton tee has a UPF rating of 7, once you pull it over your kid’s head to let it play in the water for a couple of hours, the rating immediately goes down to only a UPF 3!

Treatments:
For designers, creating UPF apparel lines with a restricted fabric palette might seem stifeling. Fortunately, a lot of fabrics are now available that have chemical sun blocks washed into them.
And Nanotechnology offers even better solutions: I found a manufacturer that invented a way to create a water based starch and Zinc Oxide solution that bonds to the fibers and creates superior UV protection. As we found out last week, Zinc Oxide has extensive UVA and UVB absorption ratings and is in terms of health concerns the superior option as it isn’t absorbed into the skin like chemical filtering agents could, yet creates a barrier on top which reflects the rays before entering into the skin.

photo by nanowerk

This enlargement shows three different scenarios:

A is cotton fiber without treatment

B shows cotton fiber with Zinc Oxide being clumped up in certain areas which doesn’t offer the same protection as

C where the Zinc Oxide is washed in with a starchy water based solution. The even coverage of the Zinc Oxide Particles offers good UV protection

And for everybody who’s at home and would like to enhance the UV protection abilities of existing clothing, there are solutions: iDye for example offers a simple solution in which everybody can  wash extra (chemical based) sun protection into our clothes. The protection lasts for about 20 washes before it has to be repeated.



Concept thoughts that come to mind besides covering up all skin areas:

  • Use of dark colored fabric at the bottom of visors
  • Use of silver threads for a melange look and reflection in fabrics
  • Insertion of reflective fabric at shoulder and/or neck areas to reflect the sun.

Yet another baby blanket

And there I said I wasn’t a quilter. But Elizabeth Hartman’s Charm Square Baby Quilt captured me so much, that I couldn’t stop at making only two. Maybe you remember that both quilts I made in May were for my friend’s baby showers. And the remnants of both quilts combined created yet another beautiful piece. This one finally is for L. When she started at her new school a month ago, crib sized bedding was requested and I couldn’t think of a better reason to get the 3rd and (probably not) final version going. The back sheet of this one has patchworked strips of coordinating patterned fabric. The binding is also pieced from fabric remnants intersected with solid off-white. Out of laziness, I spaced the quiltlines further apart and as you can see from the picture above, the quilt has already been washed frequently.

I couldn’t stop there: L obviously needed a little cushion! You won’t believe that I used an old ross-hair stuffed pillow that I had when I was about her age! My mom brought it at her last visit and now it is getting another round of great use! Literally, I used the last scraps of fabrics that I had to piece the cushion cover together. I quilted it against some batting, sandwiched between the top sheet and old tee shirt material (cut from one of my husband’s tees) and left a slit at one side so it’s completely washable.

Last but not least was a little cloth bag made out of some fabrics that I initially bought for the boys version of the Charm Square baby quilt blanket but didn’t end up using as the greenish color just didn’t work with the final color arrangement.

We added another cool little detail: We created little labels and sewed them onto the pieces. I didnt’ want to use some generic labels which definitely sparked my creativity. So that Andy could contribute something home (heart) made as well, I asked him to come up with a little logo. Those I printed on printable fabric, fused it to some heat bond and pressed it to the blanket, cushion and cloth sack.

Can you see it in the middle of the pic? The colors faded a little bit in the washing machine. I book it as a lesson learned – I will mainly print with black now – as this seems to hold the color the best.

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