Preparation

You don’t need to read or speak any Japanese to sew with those gorgeous magazines! The most important step to sew from Japanese pattern magazines is the preparation part. Take time to study measurement and sizing and the cutting diagrams of your instruction sheet.

1. Measurements:

First of all, find out your measurements: Usually the following 4 measurements are the vital ones even though I have seen some magazines give way more information.

Chest
Waist
Hip
Bodyheight.

For women, the patterns are usually based on 160 cm (5 foot 2) body height and goes up to Size 13 which corresponds to a US8). But be sure to check your measurement chart before you cut!
For children, the patterns usually start from 100cm to 160cm. Some even start with 90cm body height. This is the biggest difference to the US sizing system.

Of course our measurements can divvy from the given measurements. But if your hip measurement for example is a bit wider then the given size, don’t despair. The design of most of the tops in Japanese magazines flares out in the waist and hip and is considerably wider then the given body measurement. I found that most garments are usually cut quite volumnious, but check the design carefully for sure to gauge what measurement might be the important one.

2. Choosing a Design:

The patterns in Japanese Pattern Magazines have easy to read ‘numbering’. They are either numerical or alphabetical. Once you found the design that fits your taste, measurement and style, check the given Style Number. Above style is Style E. Most times, the page number on where to find the instruction is listed right after the Style Number.

Here we go. Now we can marvel at the instruction illustrations to get familiar with the sewing steps or go right into pattern tracing.

3. Tracing the pattern:

Take out your pattern sheets and and find your pattern number at the front sheet. Please be ware that those books use some kind of ‘lego’ pattern system. That means that 3 styles could use the same sleeve as a base with simple adjustments that have been compiled in one pattern. So when after 15 minutes searching for a ‘missing’ pattern, look at the ‘content’ info of  the other pattern sheet and you surely will find the strangler.

Open your pattern sheet and look for your pattern pieces. A good way to find them is to look around the periphery of the pattern paper where the Style numbers are a good lead to find the pieces. You can either mark your pattern pieces with highlighter or just go right in to trace them. With the use of tracing paper and a pen, I use Swedish tracing pattern and a French curve, carefully trace the pattern. Make sure the pattern pieces don’t overlap and have enough seam allowance space around. Also, don’t forget to mark the grainline and other pattern markings and notches or where the pattern piece has to be laid on the fold.

4. Add Seam Allowances:

This step is important! You’ll need to “true your pattern” (or less techy term: add the seam allowance). The cutting diagram on your instruction page, shows you not only how to best lay and cut your pattern pieces, but also how much seam allowance (SA to help me keep this short) you have to add. Usually the SA is 1 cm (or 3/8″) and is not specifically marked on the diagrams. Wherever you need to add more (or less) SA, it’ll indicate it. So, above you’ll see that there is a 2 cm SA for the sleeve hem, 3.5 cm for the top of the pocket and NO seam allowance on one side of the facing. Add the required SA on your traced pattern and you are done.

4. Cut your fabric.

Well, I guess I don’t really have to go into this. But just so I said it: The use of the Swedish Tracing Paper eliminated the need for pins, as I only use little pattern weights. And my rotary cutter made cutting fun and no longer a chore. I love these two gadgets!

Now go to Sewing: